Eastern Turkey & Black Sea
July 24 - Aug. 06, 2004


Sun set at Mount Ararat

Day 09  Sunday Aug. 01, 2004
Igdir, Mount Ararat,Dogu Beyazit
Submitted by Shirley Garfield
   shirleyann2825@msn.com

After our usual morning drill, we left the City of Erzurum, called Arz-er-Rum by the Arabs in the early 13th century.  The city sits on a plateau with an elevation of  nearly 2000 meters.  It is Turkey’s highest and most exposed city and is rocked by frequent earthquakes.  It is surrounded by three mountain ranges forming three river valleys, and it was in one of these river valleys that we traveled east to Dogubeyazit and Mt. Ararat.  Just outside of the city someone spotted several camels on the side of the hill.  The bus stopped and out hopped ten travelers, cameras in hand.  It must have been an amusing site to a passerby to see the camels encircled by ten crouched, creeping photographers!  The valley opened up and we came upon a beautiful field of sunflowers, heads all facing east and drooping in the morning sun.  It was another photo opt with the flowers and some men working in the field.  Meli tried her hand at using the cycle, but I think she needs more practice!  Our next stop was at a Romanesque arched bridge, which was dated 1297-98.  It was part of the Silk Road and referred to by some as Grandpa Shepard.  It was built for the daughter of a Selcuk Sultan, and it was said that she buried her pearl earrings in the bridge construction stating they would never be found because the  bridge would never fall apart. We saw a fish caled  silurus glanis (wels cat fish) you can see them on the  web site
www.silurus-glanis.it

We stopped for a picnic by the roadside, a river on one side and big rocks on the other.  Meli set up the surprise entrees on the large rocks and we dined on chicken legs, noodle-egg-cheese squares, hard boiled eggs, bread, nutella spread, cookies, halva and watermelon.  After that feast, we knew it was going to be naptime! We came upon some farmers raking hay into piles and putting it on a wagon to form a huge, overhanging load which, when pulled, teetered back and forth and appeared ready to fall over any minute.  We stopped near one such load thinking we were going to get pictures, but the tractor kept going up the road. Instead, I spotted an apricot tree and started to pick the ripe ones off the ground when we were surrounded by women from a nearby house.  One young woman picked apricots off the tree for me, while Meli engaged another one in conversation.   The younger women are incredibly beautiful with large brown eyes, perfect teeth, flawless skin and slim bodies in their long narrow skirts.  There always seemed to be one very talkative, outgoing one while the others held back in shyness.After fields of hay, the terrain turned into high rounded hills of red.  The colors were constantly changing to soft pale shades of green, pink, and rose with fingers of tan, brown and rust running up and down.

Then every so often there would be a bright green oasis of  tall, slender poplar trees.  There were lots of photo opts, mostly at a distance, of shepards herding cows, and as we moved further east, sheep and goats.  The apricot tree branches were bending down with ripe, orange fruit.  We viewed many piles of dried dung squares of different shapes and sizes along the way being stacked by the women.  We also passed many large bee colonies tended by a bee keeper who slept in a nearby tent.  The colonies consisted of many hives  and were seen often along our route.  Now I know why one sees honey in the markets all over Turkey.  There are  lots of beautiful wild flowers.We arrived at Tuzluca and toured a salt mine, which was started in 1915, 3 kilometers in size and containing a lake 20 meters deep.  100-200 tons of salt are produced daily.  The salt is used for tanning hides, table salt, and the animals eat salt to heal the sores in their mouth from eating thorns.  The salt is also sold to the land-locked countries that surround Turkey.  After the salt mine we went into Tuzluca looking for a w/c when we came upon the Jandarma headquarters with two tanks parked in front.  Meli hopped off the bus to see if we could use their facility.  We couldn’t believe that she would even ask, but guess what—they said “yes”.  We ended up having a question and answer session over chay.  I think the soldiers enjoyed it as much as we did.  It gave one enthusiastic, charming fellow a chance to use his English.  It was fun.

 We stopped on the side of the road to view a barely visible 18,000 ft. Mt. Ararat.  We were still too far away.  As we approached Igdir we noted the foothills were covered with black lava rock.  A road sign said Nahcivan and Meli said it was a small city rich with petrol.  The hills now appeared very smooth with rounding domes and had changed to dark brown and tan with patches of pink.  Saw some small rocks piled up on top of one another and Meli said it was the way the landowner told the shepherds,  that they could not graze their animals there.

We arrived at the roadside village of Bardakli, where we viewed the beautiful Mt. Ararat.  When we arrived at 5:50 pm, the summit was surrounded by clouds, but by 6:15 the clouds started sliding down the sides of the mountain and disappearing.  The mountain cleared completely only to snare another cloud going by and it put on a circular cap again.  We were hoping for a beautiful display with the setting sun, but it wasn’t to be.  We viewed Iran 30 kilometers away.  We continued on our way to the Sim-Er Hotel, where we hoped to get a spectacular view of the mountain at sunrise.
 


A 13TH CENT. BRIDGE ON THE SILK ROAD

Next page            Melitour Home Page