Archaeological remains have been found in these areas of Turkmenistan and were studied by George Hebert in the 19^th century.Passed a bank with President Niyazov father’s statue holding an abacus in front.  In the 1960’s many houses built here – all are small, one-floor, ground level.
Snow covered mountains to our right are Kopekdug Mtns.  A railroad built in 1865 by the Russians from the Caspian Sea named Krainenost, which means '‘red sunset'’ as the trade route was discovered at sunset in the 14 -15^th century.  The Russians used this route to India and China.  Although the Turkmen joined the Soviet Union freely, it wasn’t a unified country as it was predominately tribal and therefore difficult to rule.
Winter wheat is grown on both sides of the highway.  Record crops have eliminated importation of wheat.  1,500,000 tons are grown each year.  The 1948 earthquake destroyed a 50-km. radius around Ashkabad killing over 150,000 people.

Yesterday we visited a mosque depicting 2 dragons on its entry.  Legend has it that in a peaceful village there was a tree with a bell attached to it.  The bell was to be rung is help was needed.  On night the bell rang and the villagers responded.  They saw a dragon crying in pain.  The people offered to help but the dragon ran away to the hills.  Next night the bell rang again.  This time the people found gold under the tree.  Earlier that morning, another dragon had been seen.  Some brave people followed it to a cave in the mountains and found more gold.  The dragon invited them to accept it because it was in appreciation of their kindness.

MERV

We visited an area with only flattened ruins visible.  Vizier Babur lived here in the 15^th century.  Also Mohammed built a mosque Seyid Jamulleldin here.  Many pilgrims visit here even today although the 1948 earthquake devastated what was already in ruins. 

Merv was many cities.  It may have been founded by the dynasty of Alexander the Great.  In the heart of its lush oasis where the Silk Road between China and th3e Mediterranean gathered and disgorged luxuries and ideas, it became after Baghdad, the second city of the Islamic world.  Only after the 15^th century when the Mongol empire fractured and the Silk Road died, did the fearful heartland sink out of history splintered into obscure Khanates and tribal pastures.

Remains still show beautiful blue tiles and inscriptions.  The first excavations in the ancient cities were undertaken in 1890 by the Russian scholar V.A. Zhukovsky who was followed by an American archaeologist R. Pompelly in 1904 who claims it is the most important excavation.  It had ceramic wheels and water mills, gold and silver sinks, wheat grains, and a language of unusual origin, similar to Chinese were found. It is a very sacred Pilgrimage area.  A spot where a lady was killed in the earthquake has now become a shrine for women hoping for fertility to bear children.  People were observed walking around an altar, indicating a ritualistic ceremony.  Their hands were clasped, except when they touched their forehead or artifacts left behind by other pilgrims.  Two such areas were observed. The whole area is a National Historic Site.  A wise old man has stated, “This ruin is not only small stones, each piece is a soul of predecessors and one must feel something unusual.”  After independence in 1991 students were urged to visit here and UNESCO encouraged them to study Merv Urgench of world historic significance.

Ploughed fields were being prepared for cotton planting to take place soon.  Zaz or “halek salon” trees on both sides of the highway are being preserved.  They have no leaves, but deep roots to retain water; are slow growing and indigenous to this area.  Its wood is favourable for BBQ’s.  Kara Kum desert in the distance soon to be a radiant carpet of red poppies that bloom only once a year.  Interesting to view desert and mountains together at one glance.  Saraja sheep seen frequently along the highway in all shades of cream, brown, grey and black.  Spring shearing is for carpets, fall shearing for felting purposes.  The ancient Silk Road route is now part of the highway, although caravans crossed this way also.  Small hills, dating back to the 2^nd millennium, are being excavated – seems to have been well developed at that time.

Yashlik Village – a proposal to establish the first, biggest and only paper making factory in Turkmenistan here.  Raw materials to be utilized are straw and cottonwood.  The village is also famous for its popular Berk beer, operated by a private German-influenced industry.  KaraKum Canal follows the road to our left.  It passes 3 km from Iran.  Nondescript Police Checkpoint stopped all vehicles to be checked by armed guards.  Moon mountains in the distance to our right used by hikers, health outings plus a military outpost.

Abiverd – Introduced to Ahkmed, our new guide and archaeologist.  Part     and this area were contemporary sites, strategically located between Merv and Visa.  Lots of “walls” and mud outcroppings in irregular shapes covering quite an extensive area with numerous green and blue shards.  During the Silk Road period, one million people lived here.  Two particularly well known personalities attracted to this area at Merv were the astronomer/poet Omar Khayan (11^th century) and Yaqut al Hamari (early 13^th century).  Omar Khayan is said to have compiled his astronomical tables known as the “Jalalad-din Calendar” in honour of the Seljuk Sultan in the Merv Observatory.  It was in Merv, too that Yaqut first had the idea of compiling a detailed geographic dictionary: He lived there for three years collecting materials in the world-famous libraries of Merv.  Unfortunately, all were burnt.  In 1221 Merv was sacked in one of the most devastating conquests inflicted by the Mongols.

Several tourists approached us to show us a turtle.

Ahkmed joined us in the bus to take us to his home for lunch in the city of Kaahka, which is also a large cotton growing area with cotton spinning factories built 6 years ago in 1998.

The yard of our host had quite a number of people.  Apparently word got around that we were coming so they came to look us over.

The first roon had a large mauve checked linoleum square in the middle of the floor on which the food was set.  A man with a mouth full of gold teeth and wearing a white sheep hat welcomed us.  He entertained us on a two-stringed instrument similar to a small rounded balalaika called a Duta, made of mulberry and plum wood.  While he sang, we sat on floor cushions eating pilaf, vegetables, fruit, toffees, cookies and tea.  Later there were just enough colourful slippers for each of us to buy at $2 US.

There is a military base in town because Iran is only 20 km away.  I saw 3 tanks and a number of soldiers marching in formation within the compound.

Turkmenistan has 3 large electrical plants and sells energy to Iran, Afghanistan and Uzbekistan.

We changed to a smaller bus to take us to the archeological site of Altin Depe (Gold Hill) which was a thriving settlement 3500 years ago during the Cercassian civilization.  Shards were scattered everywhere.  This was a southern district of pottery craftsmen.  Pink beetles crawled about on this flat windy terrain.  The last digs were performed 2 years ago by the French.  Unfortunately, lack of funds have curtailed further work.  Bull and wolf gold coins found here are on display at the Merv Museum.  Additional ‘finds’ we were able to observe were more wall remains, a priest’s temple, alabaster shards, a piece of pottery with a hole in it – a lid? Stones of implements for grinding grain.  People from this area moved to present Margush.  It is believed that 4 or 5 layers of civilization are to be found here.

Barbara’s note: I was puzzled as to why, when this site is reputed to have revealed a vast number of treasures and information on religious ceremonies, cooking, burials, etc., it now revealed nothing but mounds of mud with a confused mixture of shards and two crudely excavated temple sites.  The archeologist, Ahkmed, said, “That’s the way the Russians do it.”  Slowly, through questioning, he told of a very extensive, professional archeological investigation that revealed gold coins and other metals, pottery, tombs, remains of homes, temples, streets, etc.  When all the treasures were carted off to the Hermitage, the site was bulldozed over.  Hence the shards no longer shed any light on the civilization because they are completely out of context, and the site has been ruined.

Visited Mane Baba Mawzolebi Mausoleum, also called Abu Said Abul Hair.  Abu Said Mec(ca) Neh also named for village we visited.  Said was born in 968, died in 1049 during Selchuk Empire.  Present spiritual leader living in Paris.  We also passed the remains of a large collective farm from the Russian era.  Only disintegrating mud walls to remind one of another time, in our time.

Finally, after the tiring, dusty, bumpy, cramped ride, we returned to our comfortable bus at 5:45, wilted and hungry with still at least 2 hours to go!  Musa announced issuing of snack bags containing 2 wraps in a foil tray (‘crepes’ with cooked meat mixture filling, a 5 vitamin drink, mandarin orange, and a custard-filled bun).  Passed long rows of trees with countless crow’s nests.  Traveling at 75 km/hr, speed limit 70 km.  Crossed over KaraKum Canal built in the 1960’s by the Russians.  Passed through village/city of Tejun – population 110,000 – second biggest in this region of HOW.

City of Mary traces back to 2^nd  millennium.

Arrived at our quarters at 9:00 pm.  Had to walk short distance through an alley to reach ‘hotel’.  We assembled in the courtyard to be assigned rooms.  They certainly appeared spartan compared to what we have been accustomed to!  Our room has 3 felted rugs and 2 beds with an unusual heater set in the window.  Carol and Bob have the ‘honeymoon suite’ (ala Las Vegas style)  All the Inn rooms are different.  Washroom facilities are elsewhere off the courtyard.  Dinner was offered in the dining room (Zenobia, Agnes and Maria abstained).  Interesting greens on the table – basil, ‘spinach’, parsley, dill, sliced cucumber and shredded carrots.  Soup was clear with big chunks of potatoes, dill and one piece of bone with a hint of meat clinging to it.  But hot and very tasty!  Second course was pilaf with raisins.  Conversation was bout begetable gardening. 

Back in the room, had to spread out the duvet.  Bed is hard, room is ot, and no instructions to regulate the heater.  Maria’s concern, “What if we have to use washroom facilities during the night – in the dark…”

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