March 19, 2004 - April 03,2004

Day 07  Thursday  March 25, 2004                                                                 
Kohne Urgench,Turkmenistan
Nukus Karakalpakistan
Urgench, Uzbekistan
Submitted by Barbara Shelly keith_evans@shaw.ca

Leaving Hotel Diyarbekir in Dashkhovuz, the drive parallels the Daryalyk Canal from Amu Darya River. Witness the salt encrusted result of threefold flushing of water on the impervious desert soil for the purpose of growing cotton.  Pass Caravan Saray ruins on the highway (this is the Silk Road).  Mongolians destroyed it, it was tenaciously rebuilt, only to be destroyed again in Timur’s period.  The decline of the Silk Road as a major trade route is partially blamed onand partially a response to the convenience of shipping (i.e: sea routes). Timur,  Pass a herd of camels with one ‘Akmaya’, or white camel, which is quite rare.  Zenobia wonders if theWe learn from the guide Musa that the President’s cabinet changes every 6 months, with one record-holder having kept his position for a full year.  When the ministers are dismissed, there are no transitional salaries (i.e: indexed pensions).9:30 a.m.  Checkpoint Charlie   (We are inspected by an official so young, he seems like a kid.) white camels are albino.
 

Camels, goats, horses along the way.  In the towns there is street upon street of connected houses, exactly like Cuba (i.e: Russian).  There is one pot of paint in this  region, namely Aqua, which we see in various tints from medium to light, but no change in hue.

This section is from Mary Varga, who kindly filled in while I was briefly absent.

Turabek Hanum Mausoleum of 14^th century is still 75% intact.  Its Khorezm style of construction spread into neighbouring regions.  Centre dome is 22 metres high in elaborate stalactite design, masterful use of geometry that was unique to Islamic architecture.  The calendar design has 365 small and big stars.  The 12 windows in the upper gallery represent the months; 4 lower windows the seasons and/or ages of man.  There are three main parts: 1. Entrance, 2. Centre, containing the throne, and 3. Treasure Hall.  Its composition and highly ornate decoration including mosaics are characteristic of Khwarezmia architecture before the Mongol invasion.  Perhaps it was this and surrounding buildings that induced Timur to import Khwarezmian craftsmen to his birthplace.  Timur made 5 invasions of Urgench. Kunya Urgench (Old Urgench) existed from 10^th to 14^th Century, but Urgench people seem to have lived here in the 1^st century AD because the Chinese referred to Urgench as Ujaygun.  In 1595 Arabians came here when it was independent, but called it Gurgua and Georgania

Thank you Mary!

Arch fragment, anonymous construction in the Khorezm style before the Timor invasion, thought to be a market entrance.  Timur flattened the entire region, then rebuilt it, but al Khwarezmi, a mathematician who lived in the region, left a description of the City of Urgench, which included trade, education, and science (an observatory) in the 1^st millennium, BC.  The local guide told us that there are 360 cemeteries in the area, but no one is clear on what is meant (in extent) by the term ‘cemetery’.
Our examination of Old Urgench is diverted to observe young women ‘rolling’.  They are sharing a brown overcoat, and roll laterally one by one down a slope into a graveyard.  They and their observers believe this activity will attract some kind of mystical power, an antidote to such maladies as infertility.

 We visit the Library Mausoleum (there are shelves, possibly for books) built in C11 or 12 by Sultan Kultesh in Khorezm style.

 Mohammed II’s son was the ruler when the Mongolians invaded.  He fled to the Caspian Sea, leaving his people in vulnerable position, easily defeated by the Mongolians.  His 2^nd son Gelali Din came from Syria to assist, but was killed.

 Mausoleum of Khoresm Shah Tekesh   C XII AD.

Minaret, highest in region, built in 1346-47 built by Ali Anum.  Reconstructed on bottom.  Cupola of gold was beacon, seen from great distances by caravans.  Has 8 symbols of decorative relief: i.e: infinity, power of life, etc., all similar to patterns in carpets.  The basement is 7 – 8 metres below ground level, made of stone from southern mountains.  Walls are 5-6 m. deep.  Timur catapulted cupola off during one of his invasions.

In same courtyard, there is a C16 kiln, created by Mohammed Hahn as part of an attempt to reconstruct Urgench.  Also, a ‘sadaba’, a cold water washing place.
Next stop, two mausoleums face to face, mimicking each other. Each has a portico leaning forward, although no one knows if this is damage or purposeful.
The left mausoleum is tiled, from C14 – 16 and contains the body of Kubra in two tombs, one for the body and a very small one for the head.  It is possible the Mongolians beheaded Kubra here in the C14.  At any rate, this is his burial place.  Worshippers circle the tombs, touching the cover cloth in a mime of washing the face with water gathered in the hands. 

Kubra was the founder of Sophism (C10 and 11).  People gathered in special places to communicate to their god.  This mausoleum has Arabian inscriptions from the Koran in the tiles (which are original).  These are the teachings of Islam (Muslim region). The stalactite design is traced to the time when Mohammed lived in a cave, hence the cave formations have leant their name to the decoration.

 The mausoleum on the right (unfinished) is that of Sultan Ali Anum from the C18.

Lunch in Urgench in what could pass as a wedding reception hall.  The most interesting food on the menu is a delicious wonton-like encasement with meat called ‘mante’.

CROSSING THE BORDER FROM TURKMENISTAN

 1:30 pm.  We begin to cross the border.  Utkir, our Uzbekistan guide, reaches Meli on her cell.

The customs building has a sign reading, “Turkmenistan: Neutral and Independent”

2:40 pm.  Still sitting on the steps of Customs and Immigration.  The bags of three members of our group have been checked in a most perfunctory manner by an officious blue uniform.  Other customs officers (young men in compulsory 2-year military service) are dressed in camouflage, and are casual and friendly.  Meli talks to them on a personal basis.  The whole exercise is a time-consuming sham.  Two women, also waiting on the steps, share their bread in response to my candy.

2:53 pm.  Cross border into No-Man’s Land.  Documentation taken.  Forms on cheap newsprint are filled out in duplicate re: how much money and how many pieces of luggage we are carrying.  Walk to Karakalpakistan, an autonomous zone belonging to Uzbekistan.  Met by guide ‘ Utkir’ and ‘Makmut’, the driver of Korean/German Mercedes van.

3:45 pm.  Actually cross border into Karakalpakistan.

4:20 pm.  1^st Check Point Charlie.  Driver Makmut shakes hands with official before speaking.

 4:30 pm.  2^nd CPC

 4:40 pm.  3^rd CPC  (We are beginning to anticipate the system.)

 6:10 pm.  We leave Karakalpakistan by crossing River Amuderya on an erratic bridge of segmented steel pontoons that are connected with short, steep sections of sand.  4-wheel drive would be appropriate, as all the vehicles have to take a run at these ‘connections’.  ¾ of the  bridge is sitting on sand – the river is drying up as a result of the draining of the Aral Sea for irrigation of cotton.

 6:25 pm.  Arrive in Uzbekistan.  For the first time since leaving Ashkabad, we have a line in the middle of the road.  We have a brief stop to photograph a graveyard.  Ladders point towards heaven, and rabbits hop everywhere.  Once more on the road, we pass another graveyard (Christian), but do not stop.

 6:45 pm.  Arrive at hotel.  Disembarking van after a long day, Maria says, “I wonder if they have a gift shop here.”