We boarded the bus at 9:50 am and Utkir introduced Rustam, who will be our driver in Tashkent.  Meli went over our itinery for the day as we travelled to the Metro.  The Metro was designed and built as a nuclear shelter in the 1970’s and taking photos inside is strictly forbidden.

 Outside there were stalls selling a variety of books, magazine, pens, food and soft drinks.  We entered by the Lenin Station at Independent Square.  After entering the turnstile (using a token) we were surprised to see marble floors and columns with chandeliers down the length of the station.  The beautiful decorations on the walls were examples of the stories of poet, Alisher Novi who lived in the 15^th Century.We were very pleased to be part of and observe this day-to-day part of living in the city.  Many of the Uzbek men were wearing the black four-sided skullcaps with white embroidery and the women favour long dresses of sparkly, bright coloured cloth (sometimes in ikat).  Eyebrows that meet over the bridge of the nose are considered very attractive and both sexes flash lots of gold teeth.

The car we boarded was very full and the younger people got up and gave us their seats.

 We visited the Kukelktash Madressa which is the fourth largest from Moscow.  Our guide Nosrip gave us an overview of the school that is in the old town of Corsu.  It was built in the 16^th Century for boys starting at age 16 who study for four years.  At the beginning of the Republic it was important to combine the old and the new curriculum which includes studies of the Koran, geography, computers, physics, philosophy, poetry, languages, including English, etc. etc. 

There are currently 150 Ubec students enrolled.  They dress alike in black suits with white shirts.The school is two stories high with rooms opening onto a square grassy area that has fine gravel paths, a small pond and a few trees.  Plaques are mounted at each doorway entrance with sayings by Mohammed, such as “Whoever learns science then God will make the road to heaven easy”.

 We ended our tour at their gift shop where we were encouraged to make a purchase “to remind us of our visit to the Madressa”.

 We were given an orientation of the Corsu Market and some time to shop before meeting on the bus at 1:30 pm.  It was a very lively place and everyone was very friendly, wanting to give us samples and have their picture taken.  The tables were laden with all sorts of food; with bags, boxes and sacks stacked in piles.  There was a florist area and upstairs a clothing department.  We went outside to the small shops and made some memorable purchases there. Our lunch was at the Turkish Center (downstairs) which was self-serve; a big decision as most of our meals are arranged for us. We then walked through an amusement park and a street of stalls which were selling souvenirs (carved boxes, jewellery, et.).  This led to the Monument Statue of Amir Timur on horseback.  The Intourist Hotel Uzbekistan was to the east.  In the Monument Park many of the trees are more than 100 years old.  When Uzbekistan gained independence in 1991, Amir Timur became a symbol of their independence. We were back on the bus at 3:05 pm.

 Next we visited the Abdul Khasim Madress which was given to crafts people.  Many orphans from the USSR came here to learn a craft.  This madressa is also arranged around a central courtyard with small shops and workshops of artists.  We saw many art works including paintings, painted boxes, carved boxes and bookstands, etc, etc, etc. and were able to make some purchases to take home.

We then traveled to The Museum of Applied Arts which was originally designed as a home by Alexander Polovtsev, a wealthy diplomat in 1905.  In 1935 it became the Museum of Applied Arts.  Unfortunately the area which contained the hand embroidered Suzanis was closed for renovations so we were unable to view these.  We did look into the section where jewellery and machine-made Suzanis were displayed.  The gift shop was also open (so more shopping was accomplished).

While traveling around the city Utkir pointed out many Parks, buildings Ministries and Embassys, etc, etc.  Most Uzbec homes are one story with a high fenced and gated yard. Another highlight visit for us was to one of the more important Artists in  Uzbekistan.  The 5^th Generation Potters:  “The Golden Clay” Akbar and Alisher Rakhimov.  Upon entering the central courtyard of their home and workshop built by Alisher’s Grandfather we were told there were Pomegranate, Persimmon and Fig Trees as well as Grapes growing there.

The Grandfather’s Workshop is now made into a Museum.  When he was 20 years of age he went to Moscow to study.  He also worked extensively with archeologists to find out the different styles and dyes of past centuries,  ie 13^th Century Cashkar, Uzbec, Samarkand, Needle and Buchara Styles.  He also worked in architecture tiles for restoration projects for the 15^th, 16^th and 17^th Centuries.  He used to prepare his own glazes by using ask from plants.  He wrote two books in Russian on the colors, glazes, ornaments, designs and symbols.  These books are to be translated into different languages for potters reference.  In 1933 his workshop was closed.  The family has the Grandfather’s diaries and writings which they are now following. Akbar Rakhimov is continuing the legacy of his father.  He has had creative training journies abroad, particularly to Japan.  His innovations and borrowings remain in the traditional national character of the Uzbec ceramics.  His items were displayed in Saint Petersburg (1991), Bonn, Germany (1992), Solo display in Kago, Japan (1997), Tashkent Solo Displays in 1994, 1996 and 1997.  In 1995 he was awarded UNESCO’s diploma and certificate as one of the best ceramics masters in Uzbekistan.  His works were widely represented in his solo display “The Great Silk Road” in 1998.

 Akbar’s son, Alisher was a student of the National Institute of Arts and Design and participated in a number of Expositions and displays of the applied arts and is continuing his father’s tradition.  Alisher showed us the display of both his father and his work which we were able to purchase.He showed an artist’s sketch of a building they are planning that will be a school, studio and potter association.  It will have exhibition, lecture rooms and a library where potters can come to learn and exchange ideas.  The building will use a traditional architectural style.  After our tour Alisher served us tea and cakes in the garden.  He said his was a very interesting kind of life.  When we left, his little son came out to wave goodbye.

 Our dinner was at the hotel at 7:30 p.m.   The end of another full and very interesting day.