Word has it that Gene went out for sunrise with Meli and found it worth
while. He said he hoped to do it every morning now. Meli reported
amazement that there was no one on the streets in the early morning.
Very quiet and peaceful.
Meli said that Konya had had bad smog but in the last few years had
gone on natural gas and the smog has lessened considerably.
We left Hotel Beybara shortly after 8 a.m. for the Selimiye Mosque
where Meli and the imam had a warm reunion. Jerry joined the imam in
prayer, prostrate and standing.
Meli began her Rumi talk with a description of the faith system of
Islam. Faith systems are to make people happy, whether it is Peli in
Hawaii or Hinduism helping people live with the cast system in India.
Unlike faiths that set out to make people happy in the afterlife,
Islam’s goal is to make people happy in this life.
To achieve this happiness, Islam has five pillars.
1. God is one.
2. Prey five times a day (namac)
3. Fast for one month (Ramadan)
4. Give alms - zakat
5. Hadj - go to mecca once in your life.
1. One God. - Mohammed is a profit, not a god. There are 28 profits
including Jesus, Buddha, etc,. 125 profits are referenced in the Koran.
The WHOLE world is under one God. Islam is a unifying faith.
2. Prey five times a day. Ablution, cleansing before each time. With
water if you have it, in the desert, use sand. The preyer positions
exercise the body as well as the mind. This pillar reminds one of the
importance of taking care of the physical and mental self. Take time.
3. Ramazan - During this month, fast from sunrise to sunset. Nothing to
eat or drink. For the first ten, eleven days of you really notice your
hunger and know what you are missing. No pleasures. No excitement. Meli
gave the example of a jasmine vine in her garden which she loves the
smell of. Yet she comes to take it for granted. By not being able to
enjoy it during Ramazan, when the thirty days are over, she finds she
has new appreciation for the jasmine vine and its fragrance. When you
break fast, you realized what you have missed. The thirty days cleanses
both body and mind. You learn what is really important in life. All you
need is bread and a jacket. All other things don’t matter. The sultan
and the common man are one. You grow to have confidence in yourself and
your body, no matter who you are. You break fast in community and
realize the importance of that.
4. Zakat - giving alms. Giving alms is different than writing a check
to a charity which is at arm’s length, misses the direct human contact.
In giving alms, you seek out a person who needs your help. I am aware
that the family in Guzelurt who she has helped set up a B&B in their
home may be such a case. Alms is to be 1/40th of your means but you are
not to do it before you have given those in your family what they need,
your parents, your children and you owe no one anything. What you give
them may be material or may be something involve giving your time and
attention.
5. Hadg - pilgrimage to Mecca once in your lifetime. You are there with
Moslems from around the world. Africa, Spain, China, Libya, etc.
Everyone dresses in the same seven yards of white schrod, thereby
making everyone equal, no hierarchy. People stay in camps. They have to
fetch water in buckets and must give the water they bring to the camp
next to them, there by having to meet their neighbors, reinforcing the
importance of worldwide community, the oneness of the world, while
maintaining a sense of individual identity.
RUMI
Rumi based his theology on Islam but came to express an especially
beautiful expression of Islam.
Born Mevlana (one who reached up to the peak) Celallitin Rumi, in Belh
in what is now the north of Afghanistan, year 1207. He always called
himself Cellallitin. His father was a teacher. Influences on Rumi were
many. In Belh was a man who taught the importance of a free society,
knew the disciplines of math, science and poetry. Hoards from Genghis
Kahn were threatened by the freedom and began oppressing the society.
To escape the oppression Celettetin’s father packed up all of their
earthly possessions and moved the family to Mecca, assuming that was a
place the family could live in freedom. The road there was very
dangerous but he said, “Our guide is our faith.”
They didn’t like the conditions in Mecca, so decided to move on to
Baghdad. With the “eye for an eye, tooth for a tooth” literate
interpretation of their faith, they moved on to Damascus. After six
months there and they realization that women weren't valued in society
they moved again. Celalletin’s father was desperate to find the right
place to settle. He got the message, “go to the land of Rom” (land of
the Romans) which was near Konya.
The sultan in Konya began to hear of Celalletin’s father’s teachings
and called them to Konya to live in the palace and be his teacher. His
father’s response was, “The place for a teacher is in the school,
available to all the people, not in the palace.” The sultan provided
that school.
Rumi’s father died when Celalletin was 18. His father’s followers came
to finish Rumi’s education. He learned many languages of the Middle
East and beyond, including Hindi.
At age 26/27, he became a teacher and was given the name Rumi as the
land of Rom An adjective, modifying the name, telling where he is is
from.
About this time Rumi and Shams of Tabriz met -- in an alley riding
donkeys. Shams became his most important teacher. Sham’s important
teaching for Rumi came as a question: “What do you know from your heart
and brain?” From that Rumi realized he was only imitating past
teachers. He had to be a virtuoso in his own right.
In Sufism there is no duality, no god up there, people down here. You
and I are the same (only the pronouns are different). All are equal man
and god. Sufism is ecumenical, humanitarian and universal. God is not
in temples but in our hearts. Islam’s trinity is the wholeness that
comes from -- Feeling -- Consciousness -- Wisdom. Human beings are THE
masterpiece of art which is why they are not represented in art. 90% of
Turks follow Sufism.
The whirling ritual is not just physical. It is also metal. Becoming
one with all themselves with one hand up and one down. They don’t need
clergy or the Pope to connect with god.
We left the mosque and visited Rumi’s mausoleum and museum before
leaving Konya. We drove a few hours to Beysehir Lake where we boarded a
boat for a trip across the lake. There was a lovely lunch served
onboard. Three hours on the lake was very relaxing. The color of the
lake was a phenomenal aqua blue with lots of billowy cloud formations
in the bright blue sky, all of which made for some great shots. Two
thirds of the way across we passed an island, home to many birds which
took flight as we were close, feeling a threat, I’m sure. Though not
currently inhabited but with many visible ruins.
On the far side of the lake the dingy took us to shore where we
reboarded the bus and continued, climbing into the Toros Mountains. We
stopped to take pictures of some beautiful mountain vistas. The near
peaks were probably 3000 meters. Vistas reminiscent of the Colorado
Rockies or the Sierra Nevada. I was amazed to find such geographic
diversity in Turkey.
We crossed the summit in the Toros at about 2200 meters. Cows grazed in
high mountain pastures as we continued west and headed back down,
people yelling “Dur!” “Stop! Photo opp!” every now and then.
We continued down, passing more sheep pastures and began to get into
foothill villages with red tile roofs, then fertile valleys with fields
of baby wheat looking like spring green grass all watered by extensive
gravity irrigation systems. At times we met cows wandering down the
middle of the narrow two lane road.
Along the way Meli told us some interesting facts about Turkey. The
state provides medicine, education and a retirement at age 60 for men
and 58 for women. Taxes are fairly high. Solar heating is everywhere.
Turkey is one of 13 countries, world wide that is self sufficient in
food production according to the United Nations. Turkey exports
hydroelectric power to Bulgaria and Georgia.
We arrived at our hotel in Egirdir about dinner time and found
ourselves on an island attached to the main part of town by a causeway.
We were in another very peaceful setting at the end of a long day of
ever changing topography. Through out the day we had all wondered at
the unexpected beauty and diversity of this country.
Ann Brooks
Ann Brooks Photography
San Rafael, California
annbrooksphoto@gmail.com
www.annbrooksphoto.com