GROUP JOURNAL FOR

MELITOUR EASTERN TURKEY TOUR

JULY 29,2001 TO AUG 12 , 2001

Day 08  Monday, Aug 06   2001             Page 03 by Kern Hildebrand,    

                        Yakutiye Medrese 12th C.School of theology

2:00 p.m., clear, very bright and 89 degrees. One would think the sultans would have self-centered interests. To the contrary, the sultans and their families gave the best civilian service during the time of the Seljukians. The wives and daughters of the sultans were interested in the health and education of the society and the trading systems. The schools, hospitals and trading systems were often built on the orders of the wives and daughters of the sultans. There was a mosque next door to the medrese that was used for a stable for approximately 100 years during the Mongolian invasion. The Mongols did not discriminate for Christians or Moslems, the destroyed almost everything. This is the largest remaining older mosque in the region. One does not have to be an imam to perform the call to prayer. Anyone with a good voice can do it. We were treated to a short prayer call (inside the mosque) by one of the mosque’s imams. “God is great God is great. Come to prayer. Prayer is your salvation. There is no God but God Mohamed.” The Morning Prayer adds that, “it is better to pray than to sleep.” In Turkey the call to prayer is more melodic that in other countries and the “tune” called from every mosque at morning and mid-day is the same. There are different accents in the west and east and the eastern callers seem to put more of themselves into their task. There are notes to each of the five prayer calls. The prayers are called in Arabic, not Turkish. The times of the prayer calls vary with the changing position of the sun. The first is when the sun rises, the second when the shadow is shortest, the third when the sun is half way down, the fourth at sunset, and 70 minutes after sunset is the last prayer call. This mosque is 822 years old and the imam says it has excellent acoustics, something lacking in many of the newer mosques. Mosque styles and aesthetic vary over time, but the features inside do not change. Imams are given sermon subjects from the central office depending on what is important that week. Last week it was about educating children and the responsibilities of parents toward their children including that they should give them “goodness”. There is one sermon each week, at noon on Friday, all the other sessions are for prayer only. Imams are civil servants paid a salary by the state. This is a very large combined payroll, but does not result in particular influence by the state. There is no more or less influence between the imams and the state than between the state and other civil servants. By receiving a regular salary and eventually receiving a regular retirement pension from the state the imams are less likely to be bought by other influences. The state administers an exam to qualify imams and can remove them if they are not doing their job. Thus the state has control over who is and is not an imam.

A basis principle of Islam is that Allah will save/help you, but you must first take responsibility and do all that you can toward your own salvation.

The city has some wide boulevard streets; a number of large roundabouts and at the end of the street from our hotel is the university.

Hotel laundry for two shirts, two underwear, two handkerchiefs cost 4,800,000 TL and was back at 6:30 p.m. on the same day as turned in. I spent 500,000 TL for a 350ml Diet Coke from a local shop and then enjoyed some free time by taking my book and my soda to the park next door to the hotel. The children’s play equipment in the park had similar elements to those at home, but did not follow our minimum safety standards. The fall surface was well-compacted gravel, there was no guardrail on the spiral slide and the swing seats were all of hard materials. All of it looked less than 5 years old. The park was very nice with long turf areas and lots of shade. Many people were out in the late afternoon enjoying time as singles, in couples or family groups.

 

Some personal observations and reflections:

  • Children are cute everywhere.
  • Men everywhere like to gather to talk over the world’s problems. In Turkey they are skilled at doing this over a glass of tea. The old men look more tired, but wiser than their younger brethren. The older men are more likely to gather in two’s or three’s as opposed to five or more for those younger.
  • I suspect the older men understand better that any simple solution, to whatever the problem, points to a lack of understanding of the complexities found in life.
  • The call to prayer is song, which all alone appeals to this non-believer.
  • I don’t believe I saw the resting lace of the Ark, but I’m not bothered that others are fervent about it.
  • A dog on a bus is not always a bad idea. Behavior counts.
  • I am saddened by the racial and cultural hatred that I observed in some locals on this trip. The same thing at home saddens me. In Turkey there have been centuries of revolving cultural ups and downs. I wonder what the current cycle is and what will be said about this human crossroads after another 1,000 years.
  • I was energized and uplifted by the smiles and peaceful faces of Turks of all ages.
  • I really like lamb kabobs, onions and green peppers as found in Erzurum. What spices and/or herbs were used? The flavor couldn’t be from the meat alone could it?
  • According to Dr. Phillip M. Harter, Stanford University School of Medicine, if we could shrink the Earth’s population to a village of precisely 100 people, with all existing human ratios remaining the same, it would look something like this:
    • There would be 57 Asians, 21 Europeans, 14 from the Western Hemisphere (North and South) and 8 Africans.
    • 51 would be female; 49 would be male.
    • 70 would be non-white; 30 would be white.
    • 70 would be non-Christian; 30 would be Christian.
    • 50% of the entire world‘s wealth would be in the hands of only 6 people and all 6 would be from the United States.
    • 80 would live in substandard housing.
    • 70 would be unable to read.
    • 50 would suffer from malnutrition.
    • One would be near death; one would be near birth.
    • Only one would have a college education.
    • One would own a computer.
  • You have to look to see. Be a traveler, not a tourist. I can’t wait for my next journey

                                                          

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