GROUP JOURNAL FOR

MELITOUR EASTERN TURKEY TOUR

JULY 29,2001 TO AUG 12 , 2001

 

Day  10      Wednesday , Aug 08   by Charlie Dell  dellb@grandforks.AF.mil

  SUNRISE AT MOUNT ARARAT

SUN SET AT URARTU SUN GODDESS TEMPLE AT LAKE VAN

 

     We were up before 5:00 AM so that we could be having our tea on the balcony as the sun rose over spectacular Mt. Ararat.  Meli had let us down – the large black mosquitoes that she assured us were in the area never appeared.  We had a blissful night complete with open windows in one of the better hotels of the tour.

     Some of the group opted to catch a few more zzz’s, while others helped give the Petronas Expedition Team Malaysia, a cross-country 4-wheel and motorcycle team following the ancient Silk Road, a whole-hearted send-off to their next destination in Iran. The place where Noah’s Ark came to rest was our next stop as we continued through the same muted gray, treeless, and bleak landscape punctuated by the occasional oasis.  Villages continue to be stone walls with concrete homes, abundant dung piles and haystacks. Nuhungemisi is the village at 7000 feet 20 miles south of Mt. Ararat that is the protectorate of the remains of the ark.  In 1959 a pilot in the Turkish Air Force on a NATO-mapping mission photographed the unusual ship-shaped, 500-foot long object.  Several visits and excavations to the site have been done.  A scientist in one group said that nothing in nature could create such a symmetrical shape when one survey revealed no sign that the object was manmade.

Whether you believe or not, there are some arguments: Trainloads of petrified wood are present in the formation, but there is little to be found in the rest of eastern Turkey. Several anchor stones many times larger than similar stones found in the Mediterranean Sea were found near the site.  All had 8 crosses carved on them, which are thought to represent the 8 survivors of the flood – Noah, his wife, their 3 sons, and the sons’ wives. The area that we are in is a very militarized region.  Meli explained to us that the military serves three purposes in eastern Turkey today.  They are social support by being a part of the community to build roads, haul water, bring electricity, perform circumcisions, open weaving centers and organize festivals.  Secondly, they prevent the recurrence of terrorism by being present as soldiers.  And lastly, they aid in the suppression of smuggling human beings across the border. 

We stopped at the post office at the Iranian border to mail our postcards.  I feel certain the attendant must have sold a 3-month quota of stamps to us as the group went wild over some of the gorgeous designs – scarves, pretty women, birds, and flowers.

Our last pre-lunch site was Meteor Cukura, quite a deep meteor crater produced in the 1920’s and overlooked by the last Turkish military outpost.  Lunch was an excellent grilled meat with accompaniments back at the Sim-Er Otel in Dogubayazit.

Ishak Paşa Palace (built 1680-1780) overlooking Mt. Ararat is a huge complex with baroque, western, and Iranian influence.  Russians who also took the gold gate of the palace to the Hermitage destroyed the village nearby in an attack.  The building was used for private accommodation, storage for times of danger, and to receive guests.  We had tea by a picturesque waterfall, Muradiye Selalesi, and suddenly we were out of the arid and rocky mountains and into luscious fertile farmland.  Off in the distance we saw a huge body of water, Lake Van, with a perimeter of almost 200 miles.  Continuing into the city of Van, fields alternated between grazed and plowed.To cap off our day, we climbed to the 300 year old Urartian fortress overlooking the lake and toasted the sunset on the altar of the Sun Goddess. After our quick check-in at Otel Urartu and buffet supper, we headed to our uncomfortably warm and noisy rooms.

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