GROUP JOURNAL FOR

MONGOLIA, CHINA, KIRGYZISTAN, KAZAKISTAN
THE SILK ROAD
Aug.28, 2003 - Sept. 15, 2003

Day 11  WEST CHINA  KASHGAR
The City which is being demolished to be made Chinese

SUNDAY
September 7, 2003
Sharlene Pearson
pearson.fish@verizon.net

We spent the night in Kashgar at the foot of the Pamir mountains ("heaven-home-of fruit" - rich w/water - where the kings lived -- melons, watermelons) at the hotel Chinaba Hotel (old British Consulat’s building). A very different city from Urumchi!

 

Kashgar is the junction of the silk road where traders heading east swaped horses and packs for camels to cross the high mountain passes. The westernmost city in China is 2500 years old. The capital at different times, as it is a strategic location bordering 5 countries-population is 600,000.

On the bus at 8:30 after riding up and down the elevator. Hot and smoggy!!

Stopped for photos of Mao in the huge square.

Passed a 2 year old ferris wheel - very popular.

Tearing down the old traditional mud homes and putting people in block apartments.

Saw the High and Low Mosque - 80 years old - built by rich people - called the Decorated Mosque. Saw frames for dead bodies - they were wrapped with cotton cloth. Women were wrapped 3 times and men 5 wraps.

Nex t- The Apakh Hoja Main Tomb hall - built in the mid 17th century for the descendants of a Muslim missionary, Muhatum Ajam. The Tomb was named after his grandson, Abakh Hoja, a local Uyghur aristocrat and spiritual leader - sometimes called the "Patron saint of Kashgar." The tomb resembles a brightly colored, miniature Taj Mahal. There are 5 generations buried here including Abaka Hoja's granddaughter, the "Fragrant Consort." In the 1980's this tomb was chosen by China to be a national treasure. Used as a pilgrimage site.

Next - Koran Preaching Hall -1870's - for circle dancing - only leaders of soviets could use it - special preaching of Prophet Mohamad - very open aired with decorated columns.

Next - The Jaman Mosque - second largest mosque in Kashgar - built in 1870's - wood construction. People prayed here until 10 years ago - then started to leak and thought it was to dangerous to use.

Next - Id Kah Mosque - "Place of celebration." Largest in China, built 1442. Used today for Friday worship. Arabic - All big mosques are called Id Kah.

Animal Market - Outer circle of animals - sheep, yaks, camels, horses, goats, donkeys - Inner circle we took many pictures of cobblers, horse shearers, door makers, etc.

We went to White Heaven Horse Restaurant for lunch. Home of a rich Ugyur family. We had a traditional Ugyur lunch. Sat on the floor and ate picnic. There are 12 people living in the lovely house - one of our servers was a neice of the owner.

Next - we walked to a small, but wonderful craft market. Tin smiths, brass maker, golf jewelry used for weddings, antiques.

The last stop was the huge Kashkar Market - a sea of humanity, rainbow of colors, sounds, and smells. Push and shove. We took a cab back to the hotel and had a beer to collect our wits. Soup in our room rather than dinner. Hotel is having trouble keeping the lights on. T.V. blacked out, on purpose?? Still no CNN.

Memories - Diane-locked out of their room-

Plumbing problems -- Jeanette and Louise having fun with the men in the animal market - Dick and his dry humor - power loses - a very fulfilling and long day!!

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