. As we left the city we passed the huge imposing
coal fired power plant that supplies hot water steam heating for the
many apartments in the city. During the bitter cold winter days the
pipes that run above ground are vital to the city. In sharp
contrast to the apartments are the gers (yurts) which exist side by
side with brick houses that are under construction.
As our ride continued through the countryside we saw piles of stones
with poles extended and blue material attached. Our guide Gerel
explained to us that this is in effect, a Buddhist devotional
complete with prayer rituals. Soon we looked out over rolling green
hills where we saw yak, goats, cows and horses. Gers which house
the families, often multigenerational. dot the countryside. Along
the way we stopped for an unannounced visit with a family.
Meli sent our guide Gerel ahead to ask if we might visit. We were
then warmly welcomed by this family. Outside the ger one of the
younger children was being bathed with mare's milk, which is good
for the skin and provides immunity from ailments during the coming
winter. Eight persons reside here, with the eldest being an 80 year
old grandmother. She was very hospitable and we managed to find
seating for all of us inside the ger. In the center of the ger is
the stove, and the wooden floor and ceiling slats which support the
canvas walls and roof were brightly painted. Soon the matriarch
directed that mare's milk and a bowl of cows cream be passed around
our group. Through Gerel we asked many questions about the family
and their daily life. This family is stationary rather than
seasonally nomadic, and they have horses, goats, sheep and cows.
Throughout our visit, one of the younger children clutched a young
blue gray haired goat, and he seemed pleased that we were interested
in holding his animal. At the end of our visit we left some school
supplies with the family, which were warmly received, as school was
soon to start. The family waved goodbye, and seemed genuinely
pleased that we had stopped by. On the bus we all commented what
this was such a special visit. We were touched by not only the
hospitality, but the family's willingness to share information about
their daily life with these unannounced visitors.
After a time we began to gain altitude and approach the Manzushir
Monastery. This monastery was established in 1733 and at its peak
housed 350 monks and contained 24 temples. It did not survive the
political and social upheavals of the 1930's and only a few ruins of
the original buildings remain. It is nevertheless, a breathtaking
view down the valley, and as one stands in the ruins, there is a
decisive presence of the previous civilization. The small museum
which gives an indication of the rich furnishings which were in the
impressive temples.s
Leaving the park, we stopped at a local temple. The two monks who
were chantingwere ages no more than 14 or 15. The temple was filled
with incense and the walls were lined with prayer books. One of our
group had a Polaroid camera, and delighted the children with their
pictures. Soon an older monk who had denied Meli's attempt to take
pictures inside the temple wanted his Polaroid taken as well. By
the time it was all over, pictures were taken of the monk, the
interior of the temple, and the monk had presented the photographers
with blessed juniper sprigs!
After lunch at a tourist ger camp we ended our day with a stop at
the state department store in Ulanbaatoor. This large store
contains many stalls virtually everything of interest to the tourist.
This was a day to be discussed over dinner while trading comments
about the countryside, the family, the temple, and the souvenir
shopping. A day perhaps so filled with color, encounters and
contrasts that it seemed overwhelming. And this was Day Three? |