GROUP JOURNAL FOR

MONGOLIA, CHINA, KIRGYZISTAN, KAZAKISTAN
THE SILK ROAD
Aug.28, 2003 - Sept. 15, 2003

Day 6 TUESDAY ULAAN BAATOR
September 2, 2003
Sharon Doyle
Doylesrd@aol.com


MONGOLIA

We left by bus from  the Palace Hotel in Ulan Bataar at 9:15am. 
Waited a few minutes for Diane to withdraw cash from the bank
next to the hotel to give to Gerrel for the purchase of her ger.

First stop was the Markhajid Monastery.  
After watching the monks at prayer and taking photographs
 

 

(they were very lenient about letting us photograph inside their temple) we met with the wife of the head monk. 
She spoke to us (with Gerrel translating) about her monastery and school.  The monastery opened in 1991 as
the first (and only) women’s monastery in Mongolia.  The women go to India or Tibet for their education. 
They are members of the “red sect’ of Buddhism (she says the “yellow sect” has
the same purpose but with a different road).We then were able to ask her questions.  Some of the more pertinent
questions and answers were as follows:

Q: What do you call a woman monk?

A: A male monk is called “lum” and a woman monk is called “handi ma”.

Q:  How do you equate the asceticism of Buddhism with the elaborate buildings
 and other

accoutrement of your temples? (Somehow I think we were focusing on the way
she was dressed).

A:  Buddhist beliefs include 100s of gods, etc.  The believers use only the best in
 order to worship and to glorify their gods.  Most of the material goods are given
to them and they don’t use them for themselves, only for the benefit of their gods.

 

Q: Why do individual monks have cell phones, etc?

A:  Has to do with the seven levels of monks.  Different levels require different levels of
commitment like celibacy.  Lower level monks can marry, father children and lead
normal lives outside the temple.

 

Q: Once you begin the road as a monk, how difficult is it to quit?

A: Not difficult.  Some examples of the different levels include Getil (sp?) this rank
has 37 things that you are required not to do.  Gelig (sp?) rank which has 203 things
not to do.  They have had one woman who reached the top rank and then decided
not to go on and returned to normal life.

 

Q: Where does sin fit into Buddhism?

A:  The yellow and red sects differ on this question.  The yellow sect believes since
 the mother suffers, one is born in sin (original sin) and the red sect believes that
we are born without sin until we are of an accountable age (acquired sin).

 

Q: Is the ultimate goal of Buddhism to not be reborn again?

A: No.  Buddhists believe you are reborn hundreds of times and that if you are bad in
a past life it affects how you are born in this life (street people vs. Bill Gates).  Also,
every time you overcome problems it is a form of rebirth.  Also there are 6 creatures in
 Buddhism and the human one is not the highest creature.

 

Q:  How do you feel about missionaries coming to Mongolia and the size of the new,
large Vatican embassy or cathedral’s size compared to the size of your temple.

A: No problems with the missionaries as Buddhists teach not to fight with each other.
Also, so many people have no belief, the Christian missionaries can teach at least the
10 commandments.

 

Q:  Tell us about your school.

A: The school is a Russian school.  I graduated from Russian high school and went to
Russia to study education.  The first purpose of the school is to teach about the world.

 The second purpose of the school is to teach the children not to worry about killing and
 the bad things that go on in the world and to love themselves, love their families and
 their country.  The school has been open one year and has 80 students.  It currently
has only 1st and 2nd grades.  Russian language only is taught through the 4th grade and
 then children can choose their language of study.

 

It was an interesting coincidence that this woman knows Gerrel’s mother quite well
because Gerrel’s mom is in charge of Russian language education in Ulan Bataar.

 

We then visited the school and gave the teacher supplies for the students.  We also
collected US dollars and made a monetary contribution to the school also.  She asked
 for a list of all our names and will put it into a scroll for prayers for our health and
happiness.

 

Second stop was the Natural History Museum where we only had time to rush off to
see the largest dinosaur bones or to visit one or two of the museum’s shops.

 

Next we visited the Choijin Lama Temple Museum (no longer a working temple). 
The youngest brother of the 8th Botan (builder of the Winter Palace) became a lama
 and built this temple in 1904.  One of the highlights of this visit was the large bowl for
rice enough to feed 300 monks.  Inside the temple itself there are many Buddhist
tonkas from the 18th and 19th century depicting the deities of Buddhism.  There are
also many fabulous and terrifying masks including those of Jamsaran
(with third eye and skulls in hat), Yellow Dharmapala (red faced), etc.

 

After a delicious lunch in a Thai Restaurant and short visit to see the exhibit of
school children’s art on display outside the restaurant, we boarded our bus once
more for a visit to a woman who makes felts, art felts that has been displayed in
museums.  Her name is Bayan Duuren and we had an excellent afternoon
viewing her work and, of course, buying lots of wonderful hats and other felted goodies.

 

Tonight we went to a folk dance and music show at the Rsuki Center
There was a giant rain storm and the walls started leaking during the shaman’s
dance portion of the show.  All the electricity went off and the restaurant had to be
 closed down so we were served dinner after the show in the seats we watched the
show in.

 

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