GROUP JOURNAL FOR

MONGOLIA, CHINA, KIRGYZISTAN, KAZAKISTAN
THE SILK ROAD
Aug.28, 2003 - Sept. 15, 2003

Day 09 FRIDAY WEST CHINA URUMCHI TO TURFAN
September 5, 2003
Submitted by Diane Divelbess and Mary Madison
ddivelbess@hotmail.com
mad-mac@webtv.net

Several of us were up early to visit and photograph the morning
farmers' market in downtown Urumqi.  Meat, eggs, breads,
vegetables and fruits galore.  The market is only open for a
brief time in the morning; the vendors/farmers break down their
stalls quickly and haul their produce away in carts, many pulled
by bicycles.We checked out of the Hong Xin Hotel (but stored

our luggage there) and were on our way by bus to visit China's great desert region of Turpan.  In Urumqi we passed
a couple of amusing business signs in English:  Hair Again Center and Everbright
Securities. We passed two hills with pagodas and on top of one of the hills was a
statue of General Lee who had fought the British in the Opium War. Meli commented on the fact that CNN broadcasts had
been cut off by the Chinese government ever since they had announced the visit of the Dalai Lama to the United States.

Our guide, Ajim, gave us an overview of Chinese political history from early 20th Century to the present day. 
Diane mentioned that an excellent book is Theodore White's, Thunder Out of China.  Urumqi itself is a prime example
of the China government's ability to transform an area.  Again and again we saw entire blocks of the old adobe houses
and neighborhoods being bulldozed and new buildings going up in their place.  Anita, who had visited Urumqi in 1989 and in 1991
, said the change is almost unbelievable.  The Han Chinese are now the majority population in what has up to now been a
 Uygur city (pronounced "weegur").

Some sights along the way were huge wind farms and the largest salt lake in the Tien Shan area (Turpan is in the SE part of this region)
a lake which has water clear enough for animals to drink on one side of it, but very salty water on the opposite side.

We also passed a cemetery composed of large mounds covered with bricks.  We were traveling on a well built highway - a toll road. 
Ajim said that China is building several big highways by initially obtaining loans from the World Bank.  The bus pulled off at a modern
rest stop (good toilets) with a very complete gift/souvenir  shop, with probably the highest prices of any place we have been.

After the WC stop we headed down into the desert (which reminded me of the desert areas in Southern California). 
Ajim said a name for this region is Tatlimakan which means "go and never come back".  He also mentioned that in this area is a huge forest of
poplar trees, the oldest one of which is 3000 years old.  We saw many adobe brick "houses" for drying grapes. The walls of these small
rectangular flat roofed buildings are made with many air holes and contain racks of grapes which take about three weeks to dry. 
We actually went inside one of these "cool houses" in the afternoon.  The amount and variety of raisins in Turpan is impressive.

In the city of Turpan we saw that they had timed traffic signals like those in Urumqi, and also very wide streets.  By noon we were
checking in to the Turpan Oasis Hotel.  Meli had requested that we stay in the "basement" or below ground level rooms which are
cooler.  The rooms were not only comfortable, they were wonderfully decorated in Uygur style.  I felt as though I had stepped into a
Matisse painting!

We drove to a Uygur restaurant for lunch.  It was very festive because a circumcision party was going on and everyone was all dressed up. 
Outside the restaurant we saw a group of men sitting on the ground and playing a board game using very large round wooden pieces for the
 "players".  Was this a form of chess?

WE went to many places after lunch.  First, the Emin Minaret and Sulyman Mosque.  Many tourists visiting, (remember the men wearing the
"Marlboro cowboy hats?) and many stalls for shopping along the entrance way.  Meli bought dried Hami melon for us to try.  At one point
(in the middle of nowhere) we stopped to peer into a very deep well shaft of the Karez irrigation system, an ancient system which allows
this hot dry desert to be so productive.  We stopped at a market in a village outside Gao Chang City.  It was wonderfully crowded,
especially with kids wanting to pose for pictures.  The women in this area wear "flashy" colored clothes, some with fabric using metallic
threads and others in ecot weave using red, green, white, black and yellow.  At the entrance to Gao Chang City we got on donkey carts
 and bounced our way furiously to the ruins.  Gao Chang existed from the 8th Century to the beginning of the 13th Century, though its
 period of prosperity was over by the 11th Century.  Then to the Bezikelik Grottoes, the ruins of some 72 caves decorated with Buddhist
images.  Many caves were destroyed by earthquakes and many by Muslims, but some murals were cut out by early archeologists and
shipped to Britain and Germany.  It's nice to see that both Gao Chang and Bezikelik are now under government protection. 
We drove back to Turpan with Flaming Mountain behind us.

We enjoyed a good dinner at the hotel complete with balloons and table decorations (from Mary R), birthday card (thanks to Anita),
birthday cake (arranged by Ajim) and gift (from Meli) in celebration of ROMA'S BIRTHDAY! It was the second time that Roma has
celebrated a birthday while traveling with Meli - What fun!

And so on to an outside floor show on the hotel grounds featuring ethnic Uygur dancers and musicians.  The Dancers wore beautiful
dresses and costumes.  Do you remember the male dancer who could move his eyebrows so expressively? Or the female dancers who
moved their heads from side to side? The musicians were good as well; and when the show was over the performers encouraged the
audience to participate.  I can't remember all the brave souls, but I believe Jeanette and Doris did us proud.

Another very full and wonderful day-Thanks Meli.

Diane Divelbess and Mary Madison

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