GROUP JOURNAL FOR

TRADITIONAL WEAVING AND FIBER ART TOUR
September 8, 2005 - September 22, 2005

Kathy Kline’s Notes on
Melitour “Textiles and Fabrics”  September 8-22, 2005

9/19  Day Thirteen

Many Germans own homes, which they use for several weeks in the summer. A mini-bus to Ladies Beach near our hotel costs 1.5 lira to go the 10 minutes to the center of town. It is called Ladies Beach because sons inherited the good arable land and the daughters’ coastal property, which suddenly became valuable with the tourist industry.

Ionia

 Miletus

Began 4,000 BC on the coast; farthest city was Aphrodisias

12th c group of people from Greece came there and settled mixing their culture with that which preceded it. The result was called Ionian (had 12 coastal cities in a confederation) which had a fleet and 80 colonies on the Black Sea and the Mediterranean.  Connected to the city by a marble road with altars en route (23 km). Lion statues were between pillars.

Oracle center was before the Temple. First built 700 BC. Allowed one person to be the oracle for a year and then changed, to avoid corruption. In Troy, oracles told Alexander the Great not to go to on. Oracles here told him that the Empire would be destroyed. He gave money to expand the Temple which was later used as a church, then a mosque.

There was a circular place for sacrificing animals. The blood went into a well, which flowed under the Temple where the oracles read the water. Knew the use of “pi”. The closest marble quarry is 53 km away. Two doorway marble pieces weighed 80 tons. Oracles were under the effect of drugs. Alexander would drink water with a drop of lion’s blood.

 15,000 Hellenistic theater taken over by the Romans

 Stopped en route at a bakery for bread made in a wooden oven. No preservatives so it lasts only 30 minutes. Families go to the bakery 2-3 times daily.

 Prostitution is legal and regulated. Stopped to pick cotton (second crop is best). We also saw fields of blooming sunflowers (used for sunflower oil, which is mixed with olive oil).

Ottomans gave permission for the British to bring in Africans to grow cotton. It didn’t work but there is one Turkish village with the black descendants of those people.

 Amphitheater agora is an open space

round called a circus

sunken orchestra

stomped earth with water below

loved water battle games

water was around the theater and harbor

rain poured out of the lion statue’s mouths

 Meander River

11 mountains make a knot near Afyon.

Story Meli told:

A shepherd carved a wooden flute and played music for the goats. He saw reeds and punched holes in a hollow one and loved the sound. Became bored and hit an eagle which was going after one of his goats. Left the eagle to die. Returned and only saw the bones and made a new flute out of it. Became bored. Played all of the instruments together. Someone told Apollo that a mortal played better music than he did. Midas the Emperor held a competition. Apollo chased the shepherd named Pan (became word panic), killed him and blew his dead body in front of a cave. The goddesses of water who had danced to Pan’s flute and the nymphs who sat by the cave cried. Their tears created the Meandering River.

 Democracy began in Ionia where there was freedom of mind, speech and where a representative for every 5 people met to discuss policies. Hipodomus was the father of city planning. He believed that a grid system (500 BC) best reflected democracy.

 Pre-Socratic Ionia

Wondered what is the essence of  life. Anaxemente thought it was fire, water, earth and air. A mathematician thought the essence was air. Pythagoros who lived on Somos Island calculated by the shadow next to a pyramid.

 Persians arrived and wanted to destroy it. The Persians were defeated in 586 BC by a solar eclipse which the Ionians knew about. Later the Persians returned and destroyed the Ionic city states.

 Hellenistic Empire

Roman Empire used the area as a power base.

 When the river changed its path, the city lost its importance. 500 AD built Basilica as a prelude to his construction of Hagia Sophia.

 Paul met with Ephesus elders here and walked down the stairs to his boat. He offered one last teaching “Giving is more blessed than taking”.

 Didyma or Didim is a temple not dedicated to a god

 Lunch – good white fish (whole), salad and Turkish desserts and fruit.

 Turkish bath

Bus took us to the water’s tourist area. Meli’s daughter, Asli, accompanied 10 of us to the Turkish bath owned by a neighbor of hers. We left our clothes in little rooms off the main bath and put on pestamas (towels). We poured hot/warm water over each other as we sat on the stone slabs. A man had each of us climb up on a high marble slab in the middle of the room and massaged us with a rough goat-haired mitt. He poured more water over us. Then he shampooed and washed us with cloth with soapy olive oil. It puffed out with air as it washed us. After washing the soap off, we dried ourselves and put on a white towel. We were given hot tea and two blue towels (one for the head and one for the body) to cool off in our little rooms.

 We walked around the tourist area and took a mini-bus back to Sunset Plaza hotel.

Dinner in the large restaurant wasn’t great but the setting was lovely. Loud music and evening programs makes it difficult to get to sleep early.

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