After our breakfast in the huge, ribbed refectory we climbed the 49 stairs to the lounge area of our dorms. The floors and couches were covered with colorful woven fabrics. There Meli gave us a descriptive account of the doctrine of Islam. Later we were served yummy hot teas.

At 11:15 on this beautiful morning, we began a long trek downhill until we had reached an overlook of St. Gregory’s Church, 385AD, which is slowly being reconstructed once again. Meli asked us to be totally silent for a long period of time in order to listen intently to the sounds of a land hundreds of years old . We then identified these sounds. What a wonderful idea!

At the bottom of the valley we stopped at the old St. Nicholas’ Church where, because of the vaulted ceilings, the acoustics were nearly perfect. It reminded me of the early Gregorian Chants that were most likely sung here and which I had learned to sing in college. Meli, and four of the neighborhood boys who had followed our group along the path, held shoulders and sang a Turkish song for us. Then I offered to sing a few lines of chant myself. I couldn’t believe what was happening to my voice! The sound was amplified throughout the church so that I felt like I might be an opera singer! (Hardly)

When I was finished the older boy presented me with a big smile and a small yellow flower. Such love! Then, to my great surprise, each boy came to me, took my hand, kissed it twice and presented both cheeks for me to kiss! I was just overcome with emotion and gratitude.

We stopped for a brief photo op when we saw a man, leading his heavily -laden donkey, followed by his son who was riding a second animal. Such gawkers are we!

Hussein then drove us out to a large abandoned monastery in the countryside. Everyone went on their own to explore the carved out -of -the -rock former quarters of early monks. It was fascinating. Pam and I climbed up to a higher story where artisans had carved out designs on the exterior walls. Down below we found hand-holds and rough stairs leading to upper levels and carved apertures everywhere that let in the natural light. A few of the rooms were very large. I marveled at the years of labor it took to carve out this remarkable site.

The next stop was most unusual and wonderful! Meli led us to a modest home of a family she knows who provided us with a delicious luncheon. The mother and her daughter first passed around fragrant rosewater to wash our soiled hands. We were served two soups, a lentil and a lima bean soup. Next a salad of greens with onions, the usual fresh, red tomatoes and olive oil. Several hot breads, some with cheeses, were offered. Then came spinach pastry, liquid yogurt and walnuts which we cracked. Lastly a sweet, powdery skinned fruit was served. (name?)

After we all were sated with food, Hussein drove us a couple of hours across flat lands where sheep pastured and fields of sugar beets and wheat were growing. We stopped to visit the 13^th century Sultanhani Caravanserai between Aksaray and Konya. It is the largest and best preserved caravanserai of the Selcuks. We wandered around both the open (summer) and the closed (winter) areas. Off the open courtyard we viewed many rooms- a kitchen, dining rooms, baths, living and sleeping quarters. I was so impressed by the two beautifully decorated portals carved in marble and took some detailed photos.

At 5:00pm we drove two more hours to Konya. It is a large, noisy and in many ways a western city. It was warm and humid here. Our hotel was very welcome after this extraordinary day of adventure.

Meli, sorry it took me so long to send this. I don’t have time tonight to type Oct 14^th which I also journalized. I’m leaving for No California very early tomorrow am to visit family. If you can wait until next Tues. I will then type and email it to you. If not, perhaps Gayle will fill in for me.

Hope all is well with you, Meli. Thanks again for such a wonderful tour! Ruth

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