MOROCCO PICTURE JOURNAL
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MELITOUR 2007
MOROCCO TOUR
JOURNAL
DAY 01 CASABLANCA
DAY 02
RABAT and
DAY 03 MEKNES/VOLUBILIS / FES
DAY 04 FES
DAY 06 ERFOUD ,
SAHARA,
DAY 7 RISSANI and MERZOUGA
DAY 8 GORGE TURDA
and
DAY 9 TOURUDENT
DAY 10 AGADIR ESSAOUIRA
DAY 11 ESSAOUIRA
LETA, FRED and ZE DAY 12 MARAKESH
HACI
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We droved in
the residential neighborhoods, through the Jewish quarters of Casablanca,
admired the vibrant colored flowers in the gardens and the creative
architecture. On this ride every other fabulous bulding was the palace of
one king of the Arab world or the other. We were told that the kings, like
the king of Saudi Arabia, Dubai.. would not visit their homes often but
when they do, each time they come with a different set of hundreds of
women in their harem.
The end of the day was a nice little
walk in the Medina. Medina is the walled neighborhood of a big city
where people lived, did their trade and had their work shops for all the
crafts that we are now admiring. The Arabic word "medeniyet" "
civilization, had derived from the word MEDINE. As we were
walking under the arches of the white washed streets The olive market,
the carpet auction alley and the political party banners on the street
walls were the highlights of this short visit to the Medina. On the street
walls, there were numbered rectangles drawn. We found out that the 23
political parties of Morocco had these places allocated for
their banners and propaganda material. The one that stroked us all was a
oil lamp with an Islamic
To beat the Monday morning
traffic, we left the hotel at 07:30. Driving along the ocean we have seen the
summer homes of the rich Moroccons who live inland Morocco. Our guide must be
very impressed with these summer homes. He knew which house had how many tennis
courts, how many swimming pools and how many square meter some of the bigger
houses were. After a nice little town - Muhammediya, and lots of praises for the
Mayor's hard work for the environmental issues, we were now in the country side.
Expecting nothing extra ordinary on the way to Rabat, we have decided that the
group members will introduce them selves and tell us briefly who they were and
why they wanted to visit Morocco. Before we could hear the fourth or fifth
person, few people on the bus like a chorus started screaming "tents - tents".
The bus stopped, we all got out to see what was going on. Soon we found out that, it was a holiday
Our next stop was a tea house along the road on the ocean side. Since it was holiday, they did not have their regular work team. Ordering tea and coffee took more than we had planned for. In spite of the hassle of ordering the drinks, the stop was much appreciated. We have already started getting addicted to the famous Moroccan mint tea.
This was going to be our first Caspa - walled city - visit. We did not know what to expect. Through the huge 12th century gate we walked in to the narrow streets of this blue and white world. The impression we got was that the ocean and the white surfs and sea gulls at the foot of the caspa must have been the source of inspiration for the colors used in this mini town. The cats were enjoying the sun. The group got divided in to two. Those who wanted to spend more time on photography chose to follow Haci while the others made a post card / poster shop very happy. While we were appreciating the shade of the bright colored begonvilias. the weavers enjoyed stopping at the local carpet weaving center. Though it was a holiday, there were 3 ladies working on their looms. They said that the weaving workshop is a communal space. They weave only for them selves not to sell. When eventually we all gathered together, we found our selves in a wonderful garden. Our time in the caspa flew. We were left with the wonderful impressions of blue and white.
In Casablanca we have seen few iron work. But the huge iron arch way covering the souk was really the first dramatic work that stroked us. Not knowing that through out the tour, we would continuously admire their craftsmanship for bending and twisting the iron, we all had our cameras pointing to the arch way and clicking it from every possible angle.. The Moroccan King ./Muhammed the 2nd after he built the world famous mosques in south of Spain, he wanted to built similar but larger mosque in his own country and started building this mosque in the 12th Century. However, he could not live long enough to get his dream come true. His successors were not interested in the project. They just buried him in a breath taking wonderful tomb. The hundreds of unfinished pillars still standing as a reminder of his passion of being the "greatest". The Moroccan King today still keeps his soldiers on their horses at the gate of this as a sign of respect to his great grand father from 800 years before our time. Our road to Meknes meandered through one of the biggest cork forests of the world. Though the cork industry had lost its popularity since wine producers started using the screw on tops tin stead of the good old corks for their wine bottles, we could see miles and miles of harvested cork trees looking naked with their red trunks.
A half an hour before we arrived our final destination for the day - Meknes, We saw an unusual activity going around a goat - hair, black tent and a dozen horses. We immediately stopped the bus and as if we knew that if we did not get there in few seconds, we might miss a great experience, we started running towards the tent. There were at least 30 people. 8-10 of them on beautifully dressed horses. The riders were both men and women. they were all carrying guns. there was a huge bun fire in the back. The flames and smoke was reaching the sky which was covered with fire color clouds. While we were trying to find out what the occasion was, the horse men started galloping their horses and shooting in the air. This was their holiday entertainment. We were very welcome and we could not refuse their offer and did pose with their huge guns. We finally arrived at Meknes. It was a wonderful day.
The very inviting
looking pool of our hotel turned out to be a disappointment when the tour
members stripped in to their swimming suits and dropped them selves in the
lapis color water. It was as cold as a well chilled white wine. So quickly
every body knew that
When we arrived at our next stop at 09:00 am
sharp, we were hoping to be the first group to go in. Because we
knew that what we want
to see was going to be a photographic spectacle. The gates were not open
yet. the man who had the keeps got caught in traffic and was going to be
10 minutes late. When we saw another group
approaching the gate, we
thought we better stand in line and ignore all the other
Moullah Ismail's Mosque has a huge portal. Two halls lead to an open court yard which like all the other court yards that we have seen in Morocco decorated with a fountain.The sundial on the wall was pointing to 10.00 am which was exactly the time we have entered this mosque. In front of the Mihrap, Haci had demonstrated how Moslems pray. The aesthetics of the craftsmanship for all of the architectural elements were breath taking. We had agreed on visiting a museum that was not on our itinerary instead of shopping time. So we started walking to the souk of Meknes through narrow streets and only stopped to take the pictures of the men carding wool and making huge mattresses.
On the left, the harem of the palace, on the right the restaurant where we had lunch. The craftsmanship might vary a little bit, but the style and the beauty is always there.
Those who went
to the souk found the yarn, silk, trims
and wool. Those who chose to
wait in line to get their money changed, found out that the banks in
Morocco
are not the most efficient working places.
We started the day
at 09:00
am. Three people in the group
decided to take a rest. There were 19 people
When we entered the tannery, we were all given a generous bouquet of mint so we could cope with the smell. In spite of the horrible smell, the colors of the leather being died were so amazing, we thought it was absolutely worth the time to visit the place.
The tile and mosaic production center was our next destination. As we approached the out skirts of Fes, we saw that the blue sky is hiding behind the dark black smoke. The kilns were on and more of these irresistible wonders were being fired. When we left the kilns, I am sure every one was asking what other way can Man control nature to create such beauty? Our day was full but for our early morning departure the next day, every body went to bed early with a big smile on their face.
We
fed the dogs.
Along the side of the road couple of hundred yards away from the highway, we saw a black tent. Off we came from the bus. we were hoping that we can visit the tent and have a chat with the owners. But there were few dogs and no people. We still thought we could check the tent out. There were empty water containers, hardly any thing in the tent except couple of carpets on the floor and no sign of life. In this very lonely and poor looking surrounding, we were all mesmerized to see that there was a 'tree of life " painted on the wall.
We had a wonderful sleep at our excellent hotel. After yesterday's long ride, we had the well deserved excellent buffet dinner. Now we were all ready to get on the Land rovers and start our adventure in the Sahara. The plan for the day was to stop at the tent of a Berber family, have our picnic lunch at their tent, learn about what it meant to be a nomad Berber in the desert and have a superb finale for the the day with a camel ride in to the sand dunes.
The first stop was the souk of Erfoud. The tour members had organized a shopping list for the Barber family that we were going to visit. We had decided to bring the family noting that they them selves could not buy. Some ran to the drug store and got ointments, aspirin, tooth brushes and tooth paste. Some bought water, beans, spices. Some came to the bus with bags of bread and laundry soap. When we loaded our night bags and our picnic lunch and of course the gifts purchased for the family, the caravan of land rovers took off in to the red sand of Sahara desert. We could see mirage in the distance. It looked like there was an ocean. We were so lucky not to have to run after a mirage to get a drop of water. We all had our bottles of water as our most precious carry on.
When we arrived at the Barber tent we
found the women hard at work. One of them was grinding wheat, the other
spinning wool and the young woman was feeding the goats.
The cameras were clicking constantly. The goats were cute, the faces of the woman were so photogenic, the weaving of the goat hair tent was so well done, the loom had such a colorful carpet.... We had so many reasons to shoot pictures. But some one had to keep the time. We had to be on the camels for our caravan ride no later than 04:00 pm. So finally we calmed down, settled in the shade of the black tent, unpacked our picnic lunch. Weather it was the excitement or the heat, no body could finish their meal. We carefully assorted the chicken, rice, fruit, the yogurt and gave them to the family. We hoped they could have a nice feast that evening.
We made it to the hotel in time. The
Camels and their happy looking owners were waiting for us.
Those who chose to sleep in the tents woke up early to watch the sun rise. The sound of the birds and the moaning of the camels were the best wake up call they could have n the desert. The breakfast was a bit of challenge with the Israeli group. Each tour member was claiming enough food for five people. My group did not know how to meander between the elbows keeping them off the buffet table. But the group said, where there is a will there is a way and they ended up having pretty good breakfast. We had started making plans how to beat this group to dinner that evening.
We took our land rovers to the next town to visit the House of the Tuareg Family. We were given a wonderful lecture on who Tuaregs were. What they did historically and we had a chance to see from swords to drums , from small boo boos to excellent kilims and carpets the work of art of the Tuaregs. Those who wanted to shop got lost in innumerable rooms trying to pick the riches of the Tuaregs for their own private c ollections. When every one was done, credit cards signed, it was time for more mint tea and drumming. The rest of the day was back at our wonderful hotel at the sand dunes. Most of the ladies enjoyed the argan oil as their masseur worked the oil in to their skin all over their body.
Today we are driving west bound to Quarzazette. Along the way we saw camels proudly nursing their babies, a breath taking gorge and innumerable caspas.
We started our day walking through
the streets of the caspa. The stork nest was the biggest one any
one of us had ever seen.
These women were not allowing their pictures to be taken in the previous years. There is some thing changing in Morocco
We had all heard or have seen pictures of the Argan trees and the goats who feed on the argan fruit. Just before we arrived at Tourudent, we finally saw the Argan forest and goats happily grazing on the trees. The light was not good for photos but we still did not want the opportunity. The group was very wonderful. We were all very quiet not to scare the goats and took many pictures.
We are going to leave at 10:00 tomorrow morning so every one can enjoy the garden and hopefully catch up with their journal.
Tonight we can catch up with the news
as well. Our TV in our rooms had BBC on. Pakistan is still having
problems. In Bangladesh, they are expecting a deadly storm. It is only 100 miles to Agadir. By noon we arrive at this brand new cty which was totally rebuilt after the earthquake in the 60s. Haci's daughter and her family are living in Agadir. They will meet us at the restaurant. The reunion of the family was wonderful. Yasemin, Haci's grand daughter came with a bouquet of red roses and gave each one of us one rose with a big smile. The see food platters were very delicious and they were presented like a work of art. After a short stop at the local market, we started our long ride to our next destination. The road to Assiuora was a long one and we were all anxious to get to this little city for our 2 night stay. We did make a stop on the beach to wet our feet n the Atlantic ocean. We were all very tred when we finally reached our hotel which was the hotel used as a set of the famous movie by Orsen wells.
Essaouira
was established
by the Portuguese as a harbor for slave trade in the 16th century, The
fortified city is the only reminder of the grim past of the city. Of all
the Moroccan sites, this is the most cheerful one. The wonderful beach
that stretches along the city is a haven for the sea gulls and camels,
not to mention the para-gliders, and the fishermen chasing crab. The
fisherman's marina is lined with blue painted boats . One wonder why they
might have chosen the color of the ocean to paint these boats. Could they
be hiding in the ocean once they
rowed their boats
out of the harbor?? The square of the city is lined with many
little fish restaurants. We will have the tour members be on their own for
HAPPY BIRTHDAY ANITA!
We left this beautiful city after a feast of fish. The frst stop pn the way to Marakesh was at the Argan Oil cooperative. We learned all about the magic of this oil used for cooking, used as cosmetic, used as food. We have done a good job supporting the cooperative. Every one was saying that that s it they will no longer have wrinkles.
We arrived at Marakesh at 05:00. the
check in was a desaster. It took us a good one hour to check in. The group
was still being excellent. They were very supportive of Haci and me trying
to resolve the problem the desk was having. We spent the rest of the evening at the big, magical square of Marakesh. Every one went their way to experience an excellent dinner on their own. We have already made the plan for departure. Every one was gong back on a different day, at a different time and 5 people were staying for the cooking class. When t is time to discuss the air port transfers, that means the tour is over but we did have one more full day tomorrow. It will be THE day at the Marakesh souk.
All but one was ready to charge the Souk this morning. The plan was to go to the museum and the spice market as a group and then every body was to find their own way back to the hotel.
The Grand finale was at a great restaurant with a candle light dinner.
HOPE TO SEE YOU ALL AGAIN!!
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